(07) 4927 3688

23 Gladstone Road, Rockhampton | capvet@capvet.com.au

Business Hours

Mon,Tues,Wed&Fri: 8am - 5.30pm
Thursday: 8am - 7pm
Saturday: 8am - 12pm
Sundays & Public Hols: Closed

Congratulations on your new kitten!

We would love to help you keep your kitten happy and healthy so we have prepared this information sheet that has all the necessary things you need to know.


Vaccinating your kitten is extremely important. There are common diseases that are preventable by vaccination. Kittens require 3 vaccinations during their kittenhood to protect them from feline herpes virus, feline calici virus, panluekopaenia, and feline immunodeficiency virus (Feline Aids). When visiting your veterinary clinic, which vaccinations are required, and when, will be determined by your veterinarian. Generally speaking, these vaccinations occur as below:

  • 6-8 weeks of age – Feline Herpes Virus, Feline Calici Virus, Panleukopaenia/Parvovirus and Feline Infectious Leukaemia
  • 10-12 weeks of age – Feline Herpes Virus, Feline Calici Virus, Panleukopaenia/Parvovirus and Feline Infectious Leukaemia
  • 14-16 weeks of age – Feline Herpes Virus, Feline Calici Virus, Panleukopaenia/Parvovirus and Feline Infectious Leukaemia

Please discuss with your vet about vaccinating your kitten against Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (Feline Aids).


Your kitten requires regular de-worming to keep them healthy and free of gastro-intestinal parasites.
Recommended worming:

  • 2-12 weeks of age – Every 2 weeks
  • 3-6 months of age – Once monthly
  • 6 months of age – Every 3 months

It is important to use good quality worming products to ensure effective worming.


If you have no plans to breed from your pet, de-sexing them has many health benefits, most important of which is the reduction of pyometras, mammary tumours, wandering and unwanted kittens. Your cat can be de-sexed from 6 months of age. If you have questions about this, please talk to your veterinarian. They will be happy to expel any myths about de-sexing your pets.


Cats, just like us, require regular tooth care. There are many options for helping to clean your cat’s teeth, and these include, dental sticks, greenies, chicken necks (frozen works well), and specialised diets such as Hill’s Prescription T/D.


There are many products available, but to help your kitten grow healthily, we recommend high quality diets such as Hill’s Science Diet, Royal Canin, Advance or Eukanubra. Many supermarket diets are nutritionally inferior and are not ‘complete and balanced’ nutritionally, although they may claim to be. It is important while your kitten is growing to feed him or her a kitten food. This is to help them develop all the necessary muscles, bones and nerves they will require for their lives. Ask your veterinarian if you are unsure. Although these premium diets are more expensive, your kitten will require less of the food due to its superior quality. As the old age saying goes, “you get what you pay for”.


Kittens require feeding multiple times a day. When they are young, begin with 3x a day feeding in set portions, and as they get older, change this to 2x a day feeding with set portions. Many kittens and cats prefer to graze throughout the day on biscuits which is okay provided that they aren’t getting more than their daily intake requirements to prevent weight problems in the future. Wet foods are great for cats as it increases their water intake. As a general rule, try to feed both biscuits and wet food to your cat. As a kitten transitions into adulthood, we recommend feeding them a mixture of wet and dry food, portioned to their correct weight to prevent obesity.


Cats do take time to be litter trained. By the time you bring home your new kitten from the breeder, pet shop or adoptive agency, they should already have begun basic litter tray training. Always have one litter tray per cat in the household, plus one extra. Many cats will prefer to use their specific trays, so this lessens the chance of ‘accidents’. Using the litter tray is a ‘private’ affair, so another cause of not using the litter tray is privacy. Litter trays that have sides and a roof are preferred by some cats. Remember that any changes to your household, such as a new pet, new furniture, etc. can cause your cat to toilet outside of the litter tray due to stress.


Kittens, like all babies, love to explore things and get into things around the house that they shouldn’t. Keep electrical cords, houseplants and household chemicals out of reach of your kitten. Human medications, dog medications, vitamins, tobacco, household cleaning products, car products and toxic houseplants (Lillies) are common things we see sick kittens and cats for in the vet clinic.


It is a sad truth that the leading cause of cats being surrendered to the pound or RSPCA, or being dumped are because of bad behaviour. You can begin training your kitten immediately. Many people believe cats are unable to be trained as effectively as dogs but this is not entirely true. There are many different ways to train your cat but we prefer a positive approach with a reward based training program. Cats can be taught to use litter trays, to sit for meals, target training, to roll over, harness walking and many other tricks. Using websites such as youtube.com can give you many ideas when training cats.

Kittens have a window of opportunity called the ‘golden period’ for socialisation. This is 8-16 weeks for kittens. During this time it is important that you socialise your cat in a safe and controlled environment with other pets. To do this safely, we recommend ‘kitten kindergardens’ which some veterinary clinics run, or socialising them with friendly cats that belong to friends or family. Remember that not all cats tolerate other cats and it’s important to introduce kittens to older cats very slowly and in a controlled environment. Also remember that at this age, your kitten is not fully protected from cat flu (herpes and calici virus), FIV, or panleukopaenia at this age.


“What greater gift than the love of a cat!”